Nude | Florian Poddelka

This is where Poddelka’s genius for material heresy shines. He has long rejected traditional leather for ethical and textural reasons. Instead, here are coats grown from mycelium, dyed with iron oxide. A dress appears to be woven from discarded audio cassette tape, the magnetic ribbon catching the gallery’s halogen lights in a shimmering, glitchy rainbow. “I want the garment to have a memory,” Poddelka explains. “Not of a season, but of a previous life as something else.”

And fight they do. The exhibition is arranged in five “chapters,” each a radical reinterpretation of a wardrobe staple. Florian Poddelka Nude

The first thing you notice is the sound. Not a string quartet, but the rhythmic thump-thump-thump of a hydraulic press layered over a distorted waltz. The second thing you notice is the man himself. Poddelka, lean and sharp-elbowed in a sleeveless, patchwork leather tunic of his own design—held together by what appear to be repurposed climbing carabiners—nurses a glass of cloudy schnapps by a sculpture of melted zippers. This is where Poddelka’s genius for material heresy shines

“Fashion is too slow,” he says, his eyes scanning the room. “A gallery forces you to stop. But my clothes? They move. They fight back.” A dress appears to be woven from discarded

“The gallery is a cage,” he says softly, almost to himself. “The real show is on the street. On the body. In the way someone feels when they put on my armor and finally feel safe enough to be vulnerable.”